Mortars and concretes
I think many people think that mortar and concrete are not really worth writing an article about-to all of you just this mixture and you get to the job that you go to them for use. However, different jobs require different materials and different amounts of these materials. The guide is here that I successfully supported over the years, and I hope it will prove useful to you as well. As weights for sand and gravel quarry, or chips, etc., dependsthe water content, the following guidelines / volume.
For a concrete path to use 1:5, where 1 stands for the normal dry cement and 5, the sand and gravel. For concrete steps to the mix, perhaps a bit stronger, 1:4. If you are tiled, it is) 1:4 (soft sand. For the presentation, using 1:4 (2 washed and finely) 2 soft sand. When you do a screed, it should be) 1:3 (sharp sand. Additives are available for many tasks on request. Plasticizer ishonored in the mortar, but be careful not to use too much. A frost proofer can help when the temperature drops to around the zero mark, though I prefer to work with cement when it is so cold, just to be on the safe side. When it's cold or wet, you can create a Accelerator speeds up the drying time to about an hour, although I must admit that I want it to dry naturally. For the presentation you will find a seal in the first layer need, so there are not any damp proof course. They areThey must also, if tanking a basement.
For tools, 2 shovels, you should use a for dry matter, the other for wet. They are a couple of buckets, a trowel, a garden hose (an outside tap) is very practical, the Board (if needed mixing by hand), and a wheelbarrow.
If you have a pretty big task, you are better off with a rented mixer, if you do not own this book. If you have one, which sits on a stand, make sure that it is chocked properly before you run it. Put in most of the first water, then halfRotate the ballast to allow for a few minutes, then add half of the cement. Pour in the rest of the water, add the remaining gravel and cement, and leave it for about three minutes to mix. You should notice that the concrete is smooth, the blades. Tip the mixture into the wheelbarrow, while the mixing drum to rotate yet. Help you pour water into the mixer, cement from drying on the sides, this water is handy when you start your next batch. If you are with the finishedBlender, give us a proper cleaning, both inside and outside the drum. I remember my first boss told me that I be able to drink the water from it if I would be cleaned properly. I tend to remember this when cleaning any tools.
If it is a smaller task, you can quite simply a combination of the amount required by hand. Put the sand or sand / aggregate on a board or similar hard, flat surface. Add the dry cement and mix well with a square nosed shovel (as opposed to the roundMouth). Form well in the center by pulling the dry mixture on all sides. Pour in half of the required water and any additive that you want to use. Gently prod the dry ingredients into the liquid, and then start it turning. If there is a handy partner to get him to lend a hand, since it is much easier if it has become the on both sides. Add the rest of the water, mix well again, and how they penetrated with a spade-this will be a unmixed components or parts that are also showwet.
Maybe they want or need in your color mortar or concrete. If so, is it in powder form. Make sure you measure it more carefully, so as to prevent the development of color in the different batches.
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